How i oxidize my copper wire designs!
This post contains the following:
-Positive energetic benefits of wire wrapped crystal resonance
-Good starter crystal pendants that can aid all in universal healing/holistic aid
-Blog suggestion for trialing crystal resonance
Introduction:
Now that we are offering oxidized copper jewelry, and soon sterling silver, I would like to share some information about the process, as well as show some of what that looks like from start to finish! Pictures + words included for each step.
First, let's start with "Why should I do this?"
For most people, the main reason to tarnish and seal jewelry comes down to aesthetic preference and added protection. Metals like pure copper, silver, and gold naturally tarnish over time if left unsealed. By intentionally tarnishing your piece, you can choose the exact look you want—ranging from deep black-browns to warm antique tones—and then seal it to lock in that finish.
Beyond appearance, sealing your jewelry also offers practical benefits, especially for copper wearers. The final sealing step helps protect against weather exposure and minimizes skin irritation for those who are sensitive to copper. If you prefer a clean, untarnished finish but still want the protective layer, you can also seal the metal without altering its color.
For me—and many others—the biggest appeal is in the design and visual character this process brings. Polishing and tarnishing copper can produce rich, earthy tones that give each piece a unique, vintage feel. While this guide focuses on pure copper, other metals like sterling silver, gold, or brass will develop different tones when tarnished. In this tutorial, we’ll walk through how to create and seal a beautiful finish specifically on copper jewelry.
Now for the "How do i do it?"
In the following steps, I will detail the process and add little tips at the end of each step, so you can do this at home with your own designs and hopefully skip the errors I ran into learning from nothing.
Note: All links for ingredients and tools I use/recommend will be added at the bottom.
Ingredients/Tools needed before you start:
- Your jewelry design
- Toothbrush
- Extra 16-20 G wire to make a 3-inch hook
- Baking soda
- 0000 fine wool or polishing cloth
- 2 oz bottle, Liver of Sulfur solution
- Mild soap and sink water (for cleaning parts of the process)
- Access to very hot water, either heating it by microwave or allowing it to get to a low boil and then cool to just before boiling temps (should have no bubbling but too hot to touch with fingers)
- Two plastic containers at least 3-5 in deep, preferably throwaways you'll never use for food or dollar store containers
- Your choice of a gloss protectant (I'll share what I and others use for this part, as there are many options to choose from. For this, it's more a matter of preference and quality in your selection process over what's 'necessary') For this part of the process, i will share photos at the final step over the ones below.
These are the supplies I use; some are generic, and some are on-brand. The only thing worth making sure is a good brand is the Liver of Sulfur solution & your sealing method. This is to ensure you get the tarnish you desire in good quality, while also making sure the patina stays protected for years to come.
Please note/read warning before you begin: It is important to be in a well-ventilated room or outside for this process. Some tutorials will suggest a mask or eye protection. I personally do this in my bathroom with the fan on and door open, with only gloves as further protection. I do this because, due to my experience, the process doesn't take me more than 5-7 minutes, and my bathroom is ventilated enough for that timeframe. I recommend anyone doing this at home please wear a face mask or do this outside, as that would be the safest method. Eye protection is completely optional, not really necessary, but it can be for more sensitive or nervous individuals.
Step one (1): Prepping your design for tarnishing
The method I use for tarnishing is the Liver of Sulfur solution, which is both effective and affordable. You can easily find it on Amazon for under $15. Don’t be fooled by the small bottle—this solution is incredibly potent, and a teaspoon of it goes a long way!
Before applying the tarnish, thoroughly clean your finished wire-wrapped design using mild soap and water. This step is absolutely essential, as any oils or residue on the wire or crystal can prevent the tarnish from setting evenly. Never skip or rush this step! An unclean surface can lead to patchy or blotchy results. For best results, use a soft toothbrush to gently scrub the wire, making sure to reach all the small crevices and details of your design.
Pro tip for this step: Before cleaning, triple-check that your wire wrap is secure and all wire ends are tucked in tightly. If your design is loose or unfinished, the cleaning process could cause it to unravel or shift.
Step two (2): Creating a tarnish and neutralizing the reaction
After your piece is fully cleaned, it’s time to set up your tarnishing and neutralizing baths. Start by heating water in the microwave for 3-4 minutes—you want it very hot to the touch, but not quite boiling. Pour part of this hot water into one container for your Liver of Sulfur solution, and the rest into a second container for your neutralizing bath, which will consist of baking soda and the water poured in.
Important: Before proceeding, put on gloves! Liver of Sulfur is a strong chemical that can irritate skin or cause allergic reactions. Wearing gloves ensures your skin stays protected during the entire process.
Once gloved up, add 1 tsp of Liver of Sulfur to the first container (12oz water ideally, and tall enough to cover your jewelry). Then, in the second container, mix in a few tablespoons of baking soda to create your neutralizing bath.
Now it’s time to dip your jewelry. Take a few pieces of extra wire between 16–20 gauge (I prefer a single 16G wire or multiple 20G wires twisted together), and form a small hook at the end. Attach the bail of your jewelry piece to this hook, ensuring it's secure.
Quickly submerge the jewelry into the Liver of Sulfur solution. You’ll typically see the piece begin to turn a dark black color within 5–15 seconds. Keep it in just long enough for the tarnish to set evenly across the entire piece. Speed is crucial here—once the water begins to cool, the tarnish won’t take as well or may set unevenly. If your piece doesn’t darken or looks patchy after 15 seconds, it’s likely because the water isn’t hot enough anymore.
Once your piece is evenly tarnished, immediately transfer it into the baking soda bath for 5 seconds. This neutralizes the Liver of Sulfur and halts the tarnishing process.
Pro tip for this step: You really want the hottest water without boiling it for this step. If its hot enough, your pendant should turn dark black immediately. If its not changing color, it's too cold. If its uneven tarnish (blotchy or varying grayish colors) or slow to tarnish once you dip- the water is likely warm but not hot enough.
Step three (3): Rewashing Before Polishing
Once your jewelry piece is evenly tarnished with a deep, nearly all-black finish, it’s time to begin the polishing process.
After the piece is thoroughly dry, you’re ready to move on start. There are two main tools you can use for this step:
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0000 grade fine steel wool – found at most auto or hardware stores for around $5.
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Jewelry polishing cloths – typically available online.
Both options produce the same quality result, so it really comes down to preference and convenience. However, be aware that steel wool can be a bit messier, as it tends to shed tiny fibers and dust that you’ll need to get out with a dry toothbrush before sealing.
Personally, I still prefer to use 0000 fine steel wool, especially because I tarnish jewelry frequently for my small business. It’s affordable, easy to find locally, and reliable. I also haven't found polishing cloths in stores near me yet, so steel wool has become my go-to. But if you can find a good polishing cloth nearby—power to you!
Pro tip for this step: have a few rolls of the fine steel ready if you're doing more than one jewelry item. I find you need 2-3 for any more than 3 necklaces, as the roll comes undone and breaks up as you polish (for this reason, many prefer ordering polishing cloths online to avoid mess/breakage.)
Step four (4): Polishing Your Piece for an Antique Finish
Now we get to the fun part—polishing your jewelry to bring out that rich, antique finish! Whether you prefer a fully dark, oxidized look or a more detailed, aged appearance with contrasting highlights, this step lets you customize the final aesthetic to your liking.
Using either fine steel wool (0000 grade) or a jewelry polishing cloth, begin gently scrubbing down the entire piece. This will remove the top layer of tarnish from raised surfaces, creating beautiful contrast and texture while leaving darker tones in the recessed areas. If you prefer the all-black oxidized look, feel free to skip heavy polishing or just lightly buff the surface for shine.
Personally, I like to use fine steel wool, as it gives me more control and precision. When polishing, I pay extra attention to the finer wire details, especially when working with 24G or 26G wire. These smaller gauge wires are more delicate and can be easily misshaped or over-polished, so take your time and use a gentle touch to preserve the integrity of your design.
This step is where your jewelry truly comes to life, revealing texture, contrast, and character unique to your style.
Pro tip for this step: Triple-check your work before you seal; you do not want tiny hairs from the fine steel still stuck within the jewelry wire. I've made this mistake, thinking I got it all, only to find some stray hairs when it seals into the piece after I sprayed. Also consider using a dry toothbrush after you polish with the fine steel. This will easily remove all stray hairs and leave you jewelry nice and clean for the sealing step coming next!
Step five (5): Seal the Deal!
No matter which option you choose, sealing your jewelry with a protective coat is essential to locking in your patina or tarnish. This final step ensures that your copper jewelry is protected from weather, skin oils, and daily wear- helping to prevent future tarnishing and keeping your finish intact.
My Go-To Method: Clear Guard Gloss Spray
Personally, I prefer using a Clear Guard Gloss Spray Protectant. I apply 2 to 3 light coats, then allow my designs to cure for a full 72 hours (as detailed in the previous steps).
Brand Note: The spray I use is by a brand called "Everbrite", which sells the Clear Guard line. It came highly recommended in the jewelry-making community and has worked well for me. My only complaint is the shipping- the product itself is reasonably priced (around $20), but shipping often costs $14–$25, which can be a bit much.
Other Sealing Options Worth Considering:
Renaissance Wax Requires the wire to be heated before application Known for being extremely high quality with top-tier reviews Not a method I’ve tried personally- I prefer to avoid the extra step of warming the wire, which is why I went with a high-quality spray instead.
Clear Lacquers (Spray or Liquid) Brands to look into: ProtectaClear Nikolas Clear Lacquer Clear Guard (as mentioned above)
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Nikolas Clear Lacquer is a favorite among many jewelers. It applies in thin, even coats and works beautifully on both bright copper and patina finishes. Reviewers rave about its long-lasting protection, even after years of wear.
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ProtectaClear is another excellent choice, especially if you’re looking for something hypoallergenic. It not only prevents tarnish but also helps preserve your patina finish from fading or changing over time.
When choosing your sealant, think about your personal setup, comfort level, and how much protection you need. Whether you go for a spray, a wax, or a lacquer, this step will truly "seal the deal" and make sure your work lasts!
Step six (6): How I Apply My Chosen Protectant
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Wear a mask and gloves — this is a must! The chemicals in the sealant are very strong, so it's important to work in a well-ventilated area. I personally spray my pieces outside on my back porch, and it’s a very manageable setup.
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Hang your jewelry for spraying. I find it easiest to spray each piece while it’s hanging from a hook. In the photos below, I included an example of what I do: I take two to three pieces of 20G wire and twist them together to create a strong, stable hook that won’t bend. I then form a hook on both ends — one end is for hanging the jewelry while I seal and spray it, and the other is for hanging it from my rock shelf during the curing process (more on that in Step 4). This setup allows me to fully coat the piece from all angles and ensures it can hang freely during the entire 48–72 hour curing time without being touched.
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Apply multiple thin coats. I recommend doing several light layers, spacing each coat about an hour apart. While you can technically do one thick coat, I don’t suggest it with this method. The product instructions even warn against it, as thicker coats can become goopy, uneven, or fail to seal properly. Start with your first coat, quickly and lightly spraying both sides, and the bail of your pendant. Hang it up to dry for one hour, than apply a second coat. Repeat this step one more time, making sure to keep the coat nice and light, for a better finish. Once you've done all three layers, with an hour drying time between each one, your pedant is now ready to cure!
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Curing Your Jewelry for the Best Sealant Results: Once your jewelry is sealed, it’s important to let it cure properly for the best finish. Take your hooked piece and move it to a safe, undisturbed location where it won’t be touched for a few days. I personally hang mine on my rock shelf — it’s out of direct sunlight, stays cool, and sits in my office where no one is likely to interrupt the curing process. Allow the jewelry to cure for 48 to 72 hours. You’ll know it’s ready when the surface feels smooth, completely dry, and not sticky to the touch. I personally wait the full 72 hours before listing it in my shop or bringing it to events, just to be absolutely sure it’s cured. You can choose your own timing based on your space and how your jewelry responds - just don’t rush the process. Once that 2–3 day period is complete, your piece is ready to wear, sell, or gift however you please!
Anyways, that's all for this tutorial & blog post! Thanks for reading and supporting!
Feel free to comment if you have any questions about the oxidizing process or even consider sharing the results of your own tarnish in the comments! I'd love to see it!
Wishing the community many blessings & good vibes!
-Ryan Cech
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Links to products/ingredients used
- Note: only products ordered online or require research to locate, is shared here. other ingredients and needs for this project can be found at the dollar store or your local groceries/home goods shop.